On the road to tiny town


After a little time to recover, we made  our way further inland with the goal of reaching the even smaller town of Ticopo.  It is along the road towards Merida, but about 45 minutes outside of the city.  We stopped to check out a couple of cenotes along the way.  The first was Yokdzonot, an open cenote, renowned for its crystal-clear waters and towering limestone walls. The local women’s cooperative manages this cenote, ensuring its preservation and benefiting the community. Everyone liked the enclosed cenote of the previous day so much that we decided to continue along the road and check out other options.  Yokdzonot did offer a little local restaurant and the option to experience the thrill of ziplining.  None of us could pronounce the name either (it means “well of the turkeys” in Mayan).

We eventually went swimming in Cenote Chihuán.  It was quiet and nearly empty and was completely enclosed.  There is a building with changing shelters, bathrooms, and a gift shop.  The stairs down to the cenote are in this building, adjacent to where you pay to enter.  Life jackets are provided, but not required.  Entrance fee was 100 p. The caves here extended farther back than we were ever able to fully explore.  It is also deeper than the other cenotes we had visited.  There were several ropes that anchored to the ceiling and provided an area to rest while swimming and exploring.  I definitely recommend snorkeling gear when visiting to get the full experience. 

There is a restaurant in the same complex as the cenote, but it was closed that day.  We stopped for another local dining experience.  We passed up several places that were actually listed in Google maps for Holcá and just walked along the main street until we found a pair of women who were making and selling food from their covered porch, called Antojitos Itzayana. 

No English spoken there!  We ate tacos, empanadas, and panuchos. We had never heard of panuchos. It is a traditional Yucatecan dish made with a corn tortilla that is filled with a savory stew (usually black beans or chicken), topped with shredded pork, onions, tomatoes, and a dollop of achiote-based sauce. Definitely worth a try, if you see it on the menu.